Walking the Routeburn Track (Part 2)

The facilities at Routeburn Falls Hut were better than expected. Long drop toilet, dirty bunk beds, shortage of water supply, dirty kitchen, cramp dining area ? No. No  you don't see all these. On the contrary it has facilities more suited to a 3 star motel and the premises were very clean and tidy. A big thumbs up to the ranger in charge.

Routeburn Valley

After some unpacking, have some hot drinks and off we ventured straight to the Routeburn Falls before dinner. The sunlight was still pretty bright then.

We decided to cook the heaviest food items from our pack - Uncle Ben Rice with canned tuna. This , hopefully, will reduce the backpack weight. Wise decision indeed.

However  sharing common sleeping area with 40+ people in one enclosed area and couldn't imagine how to cope with multiple SNORING during the night! We sort of anticipated this problem and brought with us plenty of ear plugs. Bingo the ear plugs worked wonder to mute all uncoordinated musical.

A good sleep was essential as we needed our body to function at its most optimal the next day in order to survive the 7 - 8 hours long tramp to reach the highest point of Routeburn track and across the face of the Hollyford valley.

Rain clouds over Humboldt Mountains

The Ranger gave us a dimmed view of the weather forecast for the next 24 hours - heavy rain. Question we asked ourselves was : " Will it stop by next morning ?" Your guess was as good as anybody there. There were rain clouds hovering nearby in the evening but no sign of rain when we went off to bed. But it started to put on the big show at 3 am . It was not only heavy but real HEAVY. Fortunately it stopped around 8.30 am. Perfect timing!

Routeburn Falls after heavy rain

Due to the heavy rain overnight, the Falls was at its best. The massive volume of water really brought out the beauties of the Falls. Yes more video and photo of the Falls while on our way to Harris Saddle.

You got the feeling that Day 2 was going to be a long and lonely track to tackle. Indeed it was. The track was quite wet but not slippery. The well maintained stone track was firmed underfoot. However the undulating track and the cold temperature did overwork our lungs. Fortunately Ranger John told us the night before that for every 5 minutes of up , the next few minutes would be flat and easy. That was a real spirit booster.

Under the Giant boulder

The scenery from the Routeburn Falls to Harris Saddle was beautiful, with thick clouds hanging over the Humboldt Mountains behind us. After 3.5 hours of leaving the Falls Hut, we passed through a giant boulder and then the beautiful emerald Lake Harris.

Long and lonely track

We knew we were not far from the Harris Saddle where we would have our lunch break. Due to massive thick rain clouds covering the Hollyford valley, we decided not to go up Conical Hill. Otherwise this would put us back 2 hours, and with the cloudy condition, there was really nothing else to view beyond few metre in front of you.



The walk from Harris Saddle to MacKenzie Lake was the first time we really walked in the wet, even though it was only light shower! So out came all the wet weather gears - raincoat, rain cover, gloves, and camera back to its rain shelter.  It seemed taking ages to tackle  this section of the walk - never ending walk, especially when walking among the low cloud and mist which completely covered the Hollyford Valley. A journey to nowhere ? There was a side track - Dead Man Track- and you wouldn't want to venture into if you want to come out of The Divide alive. Scary thought indeed.

Harris Saddle, with Conical Hill behind

On such a long and, at times, lonely walk, you questioned yourself what on earth you were trying to achieve. Joining guided trip would be an easier option. But then this would punch few zeros in your bank balance! But I guessed this was the process of self-assuring.

Indeed day 2 was the longest, if not hardest, walk. Not only it was the longest section, the cloudy weather contributed to feeling of a tough task ahead to get to MacKenzie Lake.

You encountered trampers heading in both directions. The sights of the trampers did give assurance that you were on the right track, even though this was the ONLY track. Hard to get lost really even if you tried hard.

Lake MacKenzie & Mt Ailsa

After almost 6 hours of walking, and on a sharp turn  heading down Lake MacKenzie, we were presented with this AMAZING view :  The evening sun casting on cloud covered Mt Ailsa and Lake MacKenzie, gave the golden glow around the mountain and its surrounding. Truly sensational and beauty beyond description!

Oh so that was the real reason we were here!

As on one of the guided tour websites :" If after walking the Routeburn Track and still not amazed by its beauty, you might as well give up walking." This really summed up nicely the exceptional beauty of the Routeburn Track.

Moss covered rain forest

After walking on the open for most of the day and on after passing the Lake, the landscape suddenly changed.  You entered into another world : The magical moss covered rainforest. The relaxing and peacefulness of the moss carpeted forest quickly made all the tiredness disappeared into this oxygen filled forest. You could live there as long as you wanted to, you thought.

Where are the Fairies ? You knew you were in fantasy land!

By the time we reached Mackenzie Hut, it was nearly 7 hours + of walking. We could pat ourselves on the back for surviving the 12 km track. Well done to the group.

Lake MacKenzie

The mirror-like Lake MacKenzie did quickly make you forgot above the aching bodies. And you guessed it right - clicking, clicking and clicking. A truly postcard scenery.

Day 2 dinner was pasta, another delicious meal for the hungry souls. After dinner we have a long long boring 'lecture' from ranger Evan, who was only fascinated with his pest eradicating program in order to bring bird life back to the area. He took us to and fro between Lake MacKenzie and Te Anau numerous times during the one hour + talk. Almost doozed off.

He might lack the Toastmaster-like presentation skill to entertain those tired souls, his effort deserved big applause, big praise. Well done Ranger Evan. At time of writing, the Government are planning to cut DOC staff in order to cut costs. What a shame they have to take this drastic steps. DOC has done excellent work of keeping and preserving the National treasures in tip top condition for the present and future generation to enjoy. I hope there are better solutions.......

Lake MacKenzie- Simply Beautiful

The sleeping arrangement was not as good as Routeburn Falls Hut. Only a handful of bunk beds were in enclosed area like those at Routeburn Falls. There rest was just a big flat platform where one slept side by side to each other. Almost 20+ of them were laying one next to another. We were fortunate that 2 of the faster walkers managed to get to the Hut before anyone else and booked the more comfortable beds for the rest of the group.

Lake MacKenzie

Morning Sun, Magical Forest

Sunrise

To be continued Part 3 ........