Thursday, May 9, 2013


Walking the Routeburn Track (Part 2)

The facilities at Routeburn Falls Hut were better than expected. Long drop toilet, dirty bunk beds, shortage of water supply, dirty kitchen, cramp dining area ? No. No  you don't see all these. On the contrary it has facilities more suited to a 3 star motel and the premises were very clean and tidy. A big thumbs up to the ranger in charge.

Routeburn Valley
After some unpacking, have some hot drinks and off we ventured straight to the Routeburn Falls before dinner. The sunlight was still pretty bright then.

We decided to cook the heaviest food items from our pack - Uncle Ben Rice with canned tuna. This , hopefully, will reduce the backpack weight. Wise decision indeed.

However  sharing common sleeping area with 40+ people in one enclosed area and couldn't imagine how to cope with multiple SNORING during the night! We sort of anticipated this problem and brought with us plenty of ear plugs. Bingo the ear plugs worked wonder to mute all uncoordinated musical.

A good sleep was essential as we needed our body to function at its most optimal the next day in order to survive the 7 - 8 hours long tramp to reach the highest point of Routeburn track and across the face of the Hollyford valley.

Rain clouds over Humboldt Mountains
The Ranger gave us a dimmed view of the weather forecast for the next 24 hours - heavy rain. Question we asked ourselves was : " Will it stop by next morning ?" Your guess was as good as anybody there. There were rain clouds hovering nearby in the evening but no sign of rain when we went off to bed. But it started to put on the big show at 3 am . It was not only heavy but real HEAVY. Fortunately it stopped around 8.30 am. Perfect timing!

Routeburn Falls after heavy rain
Due to the heavy rain overnight, the Falls was at its best. The massive volume of water really brought out the beauties of the Falls. Yes more video and photo of the Falls while on our way to Harris Saddle.


You got the feeling that Day 2 was going to be a long and lonely track to tackle. Indeed it was. The track was quite wet but not slippery. The well maintained stone track was firmed underfoot. However the undulating track and the cold temperature did overwork our lungs. Fortunately Ranger John told us the night before that for every 5 minutes of up , the next few minutes would be flat and easy. That was a real spirit booster.

Under the Giant boulder
The scenery from the Routeburn Falls to Harris Saddle was beautiful, with thick clouds hanging over the Humboldt Mountains behind us. After 3.5 hours of leaving the Falls Hut, we passed through a giant boulder and then the beautiful emerald Lake Harris.

Long and lonely track
We knew we were not far from the Harris Saddle where we would have our lunch break. Due to massive thick rain clouds covering the Hollyford valley, we decided not to go up Conical Hill. Otherwise this would put us back 2 hours, and with the cloudy condition, there was really nothing else to view beyond few metre in front of you.



The walk from Harris Saddle to MacKenzie Lake was the first time we really walked in the wet, even though it was only light shower! So out came all the wet weather gears - raincoat, rain cover, gloves, and camera back to its rain shelter.  It seemed taking ages to tackle  this section of the walk - never ending walk, especially when walking among the low cloud and mist which completely covered the Hollyford Valley. A journey to nowhere ? There was a side track - Dead Man Track- and you wouldn't want to venture into if you want to come out of The Divide alive. Scary thought indeed.
Harris Saddle, with Conical Hill behind

On such a long and, at times, lonely walk, you questioned yourself what on earth you were trying to achieve. Joining guided trip would be an easier option. But then this would punch few zeros in your bank balance! But I guessed this was the process of self-assuring.

Indeed day 2 was the longest, if not hardest, walk. Not only it was the longest section, the cloudy weather contributed to feeling of a tough task ahead to get to MacKenzie Lake.

You encountered trampers heading in both directions. The sights of the trampers did give assurance that you were on the right track, even though this was the ONLY track. Hard to get lost really even if you tried hard.

Lake MacKenzie & Mt Ailsa
After almost 6 hours of walking, and on a sharp turn  heading down Lake MacKenzie, we were presented with this AMAZING view :  The evening sun casting on cloud covered Mt Ailsa and Lake MacKenzie, gave the golden glow around the mountain and its surrounding. Truly sensational and beauty beyond description!

Oh so that was the real reason we were here!

As on one of the guided tour websites :" If after walking the Routeburn Track and still not amazed by its beauty, you might as well give up walking." This really summed up nicely the exceptional beauty of the Routeburn Track.

Moss covered rain forest
After walking on the open for most of the day and on after passing the Lake, the landscape suddenly changed.  You entered into another world : The magical moss covered rainforest. The relaxing and peacefulness of the moss carpeted forest quickly made all the tiredness disappeared into this oxygen filled forest. You could live there as long as you wanted to, you thought.

Where are the Fairies ? You knew you were in fantasy land!

By the time we reached Mackenzie Hut, it was nearly 7 hours + of walking. We could pat ourselves on the back for surviving the 12 km track. Well done to the group.

Lake MacKenzie
The mirror-like Lake MacKenzie did quickly make you forgot above the aching bodies. And you guessed it right - clicking, clicking and clicking. A truly postcard scenery.

Day 2 dinner was pasta, another delicious meal for the hungry souls. After dinner we have a long long boring 'lecture' from ranger Evan, who was only fascinated with his pest eradicating program in order to bring bird life back to the area. He took us to and fro between Lake MacKenzie and Te Anau numerous times during the one hour + talk. Almost doozed off.

He might lack the Toastmaster-like presentation skill to entertain those tired souls, his effort deserved big applause, big praise. Well done Ranger Evan. At time of writing, the Government are planning to cut DOC staff in order to cut costs. What a shame they have to take this drastic steps. DOC has done excellent work of keeping and preserving the National treasures in tip top condition for the present and future generation to enjoy. I hope there are better solutions.......

Lake MacKenzie- Simply Beautiful
The sleeping arrangement was not as good as Routeburn Falls Hut. Only a handful of bunk beds were in enclosed area like those at Routeburn Falls. There rest was just a big flat platform where one slept side by side to each other. Almost 20+ of them were laying one next to another. We were fortunate that 2 of the faster walkers managed to get to the Hut before anyone else and booked the more comfortable beds for the rest of the group.
Lake MacKenzie



Morning Sun, Magical Forest



Sunrise

















To be continued Part 3 ........










Friday, May 3, 2013

One man's extraordinary steps

This is another piece of fantastic and motivational article which is very close to what I  ( and the rest of my tramping buddies and family) am involved in.

I hope, by reading the article, this will 'transform' some of you into something 'extraordinary'. But reading will not get you there. Let your legs and body do the talking.

What I like about the article :
 - doing at your own comfortable pace,
 - 50 or even 70 is not too old,
 - don't need exceptional genes to do it, he is no extraordinary,
 - honest in why he did it, why he did't (and couldn't) give up,
 - food for the soul , connect to nature etc

When we started with those 3-hours walks at Waitakere or Huanua or some Regional Parks around Auckland , we thought these were 'tough'. Then when we tackled the 32 km Routeburn track and we thought, OMG, that was incredible.

Prior to this article, we have planned to do the 78 km Heaphy track. With the experience gained from the Routeburn Track, we should be well prepared for the longer Heaphy Track. As I started the planning, this idea started to evolve that we should be able to do other Great Walks shortly after Heaphy Track. Next come the Whanganui Journey, a 80+ km downstream canoeing. Then this was followed by including the 20 km Tongariro Crossing in our itinerary.

If you think you can, YOU CAN.

I was planning to do Tongariro Crossing Track earlier but postponed the idea as part of the track after the Red Crater was closed due to volcanic eruption in August 2012. However the track will be opened in May this year and the timing is right for us.

What we are trying to do does not have the magnitude of the 7in7 Challenge by Malcolm Law but if we can fulfill what we planned to do, it will be a great achievement. An achievement you only have to prove to yourself and no one else.

Goal setting, then do what you need to do, and then let you legs do the talking. I strongly believe that  proper training, knowing what you are getting into, anticipating potential risk factors ,and  proper and thorough planning are the key ingredients to a successful adventure.

Hope you enjoy reading this very motivational article about Malcolm Law, the Ultrarunner. I don't think I will get his book ,One Step Beyond, as I am a lazy reader of book.

KT


One man's extraordinary steps

By Andy Kenworthy
6:30 AM Saturday May 4, 2013

A running regime that would defy most of us is soul food to Malcolm Law, writes Andy Kenworthy

Ultrarunner Malcolm Law. Photo / Mead Norton Photography

Sometimes I'm tempted to call Malcolm Law an outrageous liar. You might think this is because the feats of physical endurance he has completed - including becoming the first person to run New Zealand's seven mainland Great Walks in just seven days - defy the imagination. And this is even before you consider that they were completed while Law was in his late 40s and early 50s.
But there are lots of witnesses to this behaviour and his adventures are now the subject of his first book, One Step Beyond. So I have to believe him. The bit I find hard to believe is Law's assertion that he is an ordinary person who is not particularly athletically gifted.
"For the first five to 10 minutes of running I nearly always feel like crap," he says.
"So if I stopped every time I felt crap, I would never get going at all."
We are meeting in a cafe where Law is fuelling up with a beef pie. I have just signed on for what I expect to be up to five hours of mostly feeling like crap the following day - running the Mototapu-Rangitoto Traverse, a marathon distance run over hilly paddocks and mountainous lava fields. I have done this course once before and trained as steadily as my schedule would allow for more than six months.
I still anticipate hobbling like a cowboy for several days afterwards. So the idea that this supposedly "normal" man who is 15 years older than me can do this and more, day after day for a week, is proving a bit hard to swallow.
Law traces his love of footslogging through high muddy places and his taste for adventure back to his upbringing in Britain. His father became one of the first few hundred people to reach the summits of all the 282 Scottish Munro mountains, and Law devoured books about heroes such as British adventurer Ranulph Fiennes.
But the main inspiration for the 7in7 Challenges came from his family's most tragic challenge, dealing with the death of Law's older brother, Alan, from leukaemia at the age of 13.
In his book, Law is candid about the effect the loss of his brother had on him.
"When the end came it was a total shock for me. I'd had no time to prepare for the inevitable and instead found myself plunged in at the deep end of grief. Over the 40 years that followed I managed to slowly edge my way towards the shallow end, but I never really climbed out of the pool altogether."
After moving to New Zealand in the mid-1980s Law broadened his passion for tramping into sporadic involvement in multi-sport events. The desire to test himself to the limit on foot came about after a particularly high number of overseas business trips drained his reserves.
"I found my thoughts drifting back in time to my earliest mountain memories, of times spent in the Scottish Highlands as a child," he says in his book. "This in turn took me back, as it so often does when I get nostalgic in this way, to that fateful holiday on the Outer Hebrides in the summer of 68. It took me back to the grief of losing Alan. Then it occurred to me: this crazy mission I was contemplating could be used somehow to honour his memory and raise money for a leukaemia-related charity ... I muttered the words, 'this one's for you, bro'."
And so the scene was set for this adventure and the ripping yarn that has now hit the shelves: the logistics, the training, the injury worries and finally the big week. It will not spoil the tale to tell you that he somehow managed to recruit enough sponsors, well-wishers and enthusiasts to not only get the job done but to do something very similar the year after, raising more than a $250,000 for the Leukaemia & Blood Foundation of New Zealand.
To get an understanding of what it takes to achieve something like this, you need to read the book. And, crucially, for Law's refusal to believe that he is extraordinary, he also wants you to read it so you realise that you, too, could do something as epic in your own life.
"I always thought my role in life was to read about other people doing this stuff, not being one of the ones who was doing it," he says. "That first 7in7 Challenge completely blew that apart and made me believe that actually I can live these adventures. That is what was life-changing about the experience for me.
"Anyone can get to where I am at, I believe, because I am fairly average in terms of the genetic level of athleticism that I have. Not everyone can race at the elite end of the field, because if you haven't got the right genes you won't, it's as simple as that. But if you want to get to the point I am at, where I could pretty much get out of bed and run a marathon if I had to any day of the week at a pace that I dictated, then anyone can get to that point. It's just a matter of putting in the time. But you only put in the time if you really love it. Otherwise it becomes a chore."
I want to believe him. I must admit that I am surprised at my own transformation from lanky sprat huffing and puffing at the very back of the school cross-country, to lanky adult huffing and puffing over mountain marathons - and finishing them. I also realise that the major part of that transformation has been the fact that I now really love running, which is not something they ever taught me at school.
But what about the people who say stuff like "I can't run, it makes my knees hurt"?
"I feel niggles a lot of the time," Law says. "When people say they are hurting they don't really know what kind of hurting they are feeling. Is it just a niggle, or something more serious?
"I think unless you really want to be a runner and feel the benefits to your mental health, the physical fitness and the other endorphin-fuelled rewards, then any pain you feel is going to be exaggerated in your mind and you will use it as a reason not to do it. If you really want those rewards I suspect you will live with it."
His latest solution has been to move from running insanely long distances and then doing no running at all for days, to challenging himself to a "streak", where he has to run at least 5km every day for as long as he can keep it up and then running long distances too. So far he has found the repetition good for reducing the feeling of strain.
"It's like having a car and only turning it over every six months. It struggles to start. But when you turn it over every morning, it's fine. If you never do any running and you try to run 5km around the block it is inevitable that you are going to feel pain."
But surely there is a quite a stretch between enjoying the odd jog though the park or even being a "one marathon a year" type like me, to taking on the sort of thing Law has done?
He admits he has been lucky to limit his training injuries to a couple of calf strains over the years, leaving aside the severe shin tendonitis he suffered after running more than 650km in 10 days on Britain's South West Coastal path.
In contrast I have had neurapraxia toe numbness, Achilles tendon inflammation, calf tears and knee-stabbing iliotibial band syndrome in just two years of doing only a fraction of the kilometres that Law runs.
He puts this more down to his approach than his genetics.
"I think if you are sensible about how often you push yourself really hard and do some good background maintenance work with Pilates and that sort of thing, then the body can sustain quite high mileage," he says.
"A lot of the time I am not even training, I am just out there running for the fun of it. Most of the people I talk to say that they get injuries when they up the amount of speed work or high intensity work. That is what tends to cause the injuries."
But surely, if he is claiming to be human, this has got to hurt. Why and how does he keep going?
"At times it is not the joy of it, it is sheer bloody-minded stubbornness," he says. 
"There is ego on the line, you don't want to fail and be at the prizegiving the next day saying 'I didn't finish'. On the fundraising runs the cause provides a huge reason to keep going. It ends up with a lot of people supporting you and putting faith in you, so you don't want to let them down. But ultimately, the reason I run on trails is liberation, freedom, it's soul food to me. I feel a lot more connected with the real world, a lot less stressed and a lot more enriched from running."
So how far will Law go?
"I like to think my horizon will continue to shift away from me. It's about setting the goal further towards the horizon, as long as I have the fuel, the motivation and the interest. At some point I will take one step too far - which might be the title of the next book." 

Malcolm Law's trails and trials
The 7in7 Challenge 2009 for The Leukaemia & Blood Foundation of New Zealand
Day 1: 42.7km - Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk, 8.5 hrs
Day 2: 41km - Tongariro Northern Circuit, 8.5 hrs
Day 3: 51.9km - Abel Tasman Coast Track, 9 hrs
Day 4: 78.4km - Heaphy Track, 13 hrs
Day 5: 32.1km - Routeburn Track, 7.5 hrs
Day 6: 53.5km - Milford Track, 10 hrs
Day 7: 60.1km - The Kepler Challenge, 10 hrs
Total for the week: 359.7km, 66 hours
The 7in7 Challenge 2010
Day 1: 42km - Twin Lakes Marathon (Hawea/Wanaka) 5 hrs
Day 2: 55km - Wilkin Circuit, 12 hrs
Day 3: 50km - Motatapu Gold, 14 hrs
Day 4: 42km - Wakatipu Wonderland - 9 hrs
Day 5: 67km - Rees-Dart, 13.5 hrs
Day 6: 54km - Greenstone-Mavora Walkway, 10 hrs running
Day 7: 60km - The Kepler Challenge, 9.5 hours
Total for the week: 370km, 73 hours
The Coast Path Run 2012
17 days and 1014km over the footpaths traversing England's undulating south-west coastline, with a total of 35,000m of ascent - the equivalent of four 
Mt Everests.

 One Step Beyond: how an ordinary man took on the ultimate running challenge and won (Penguin $30) is out now.
By Andy Kenworthy