Tongariro Alpine Crosssing

Doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing immediately after a long 5 hours bus trip was a No No. But with the all expectations and the excitements to look forward to after few weeks of planning, cancelling the trip was the last thing on our minds.

A call to DOC office on Friday late afternoon to check on the weather forecast disrupted our long planned trip. Initially our plan was to travel on Saturday and do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing on Sunday. However the weather forecast for Sunday was : rain, wind speed at 90 km/hr at the summit, temperature -7°C and snow at 1200 m. You wouldn't want to attempt the Crossing on these atrocious weather conditions. Then quick exchanges of phone calls and txts on late Friday afternoon and we decided to depart in the early hour of 6.15 am on Saturday. Instead we plan to do the Crossing immediately on arrival as we as time is running short to complete the Crossing.

After 5 hours on the road,we finally arrived at Mangatepopo car park at 11.30 am. After a very brief rest, up came the packs on the back and off we went. It was sunny, blue sky, not much cloud and even though the temperature was cold but it was ideal for tramping.

It was quite an easy walk from here to Soda Springs. But it was also the first sign of a more serious things to come. My tibialis anterior muscles started to feel sore and tense. Not a good sign.

We reached Soda Springs after 1 1/2 hours of hurrying through this section. The pace was too fast. But then we knew we started late and needed to cover up for the difficult climb ahead. A short lunch break at Soda Springs was a welcome relief for my aching muscles. After putting many hours of training, I knew I was fit enough to complete the Crossing without much difficulty. However the muscle pain was definitely not a good sign.

Now it was the Devil's Staircase we were heading into. It was named with a purpose, for sure. Yes it was very hard climbing up those never ending steps and definitely taking heavy toll on your lower body. We were reaching for the height of 1600+ m above sea level.

It was almost over for me at this point. The left calf muscle cramp started to set in and also a slight pull on the left hammy. The cramp was quite severe. Fortunately, with the help from fellow tramper, Zee, a short rest and stretching the affected muscle, I was able to continue slowly. Not too long into the slow walk, this time it was the right calf muscle decided to have a go. Now I have a double whammy! Zee and Rome offered to carry my backpack. Without their assistance, I don't think I am able to complete the Crossing. I was almost given up taking any photos and videos after the cramp.

The climb from South Crater to Red Crater was difficult, and with scoria all over the hard surface, the track was slippery underfoot. It was definitely very hard trying to reach the Red Crater, at 1800+ m, especially with cramp on both legs. Pushing yourself up the slope induced more cramp to both calf muscles. With the wind blowing at 70+ km/hr and the temperature dropping to -2°C, it was like near impossible to continue. We took shelter behind a big rock. Even with woollen gloves, your fingers just couldn't feel anything. The disposable heat pad did come in handy to warm up my hands.

The cramp was due to dehydration, insufficient sleep the night before and wearing tramping short in extreme cold weather. I haven't sipped water throughout the 5 hours journey. Due to the last minute change of travelling plan, you couldn't sleep soundly and waking up every hour.

Slowly but surely, with the back facing the direction of the wind, we managed to reach the Red Crater after 2 3/4 hours of walking. By now we were in the most dangerous zone of the track. The summit is the most scenic part of the Crossing. Cold wind continued to blow but managed to take some shots of the crater and surrounding scene. We took shelter behind a big rock. Fingers, even with gloves, were near freezing point!

From Red Crater to Emerald Lakes was the easiest part of the whole track. With the loose earth and scoria, you literally slide down the slope. That was a welcoming relief for my cramped legs.

The Emerald Lakes were name after the colour due to mineral deposits in the lake. Together with the Red Crater, these must be the most scenic part of the track. At this point the wind did slow down.

The Central Crater was quite flat and was a welcoming relief after the early uphill climb. We have been walking for 4 hours covering 9 km by now. Another 10 km to go from here to the Ketetahi Car park. A 30 minutes walk took us to the Blue Lake. We have a brief stop alongside the Lake for some photos before heading towards North Crater.

We picked a spot for another stop along the North Crater for some snacks, and overlooking Te Maari Crater. Hot steam and volcanic gases still pouring out from the Crater. Then it was time to move again as we have only covered 1/2 the distance. There were still patches of snow beside the track as we sidled along the North Crater towards Ketetahi Shelter.

The track now was mostly downhill , with Lake Rotoaira and its surrounding mountains right ahead, with Lake Taupo further away. As we approaching the Shelter, the landscape changed from volcanic rock to golden tussock grassland. Even with the overcast sky, the tussock grassland grew more golden under the late afternoon sun.

We have brief stop inside Ketetahi Shelter, then picked ourselves up and moved again as the sunset was still a long way away. After the 2012 eruption, which damaged part of the Ketetahi Shelter, it was no longer used for accommodation purpose.

After 25 minutes of leaving the Shelter, we arrived at the Ketetahi stream. Generally from here to the Ketetahi car park, the track is downhill with steps at intervals. Even though it was downhill and quite flat, it took us another 2 hours to reach the car park.

We crossed the wider part of the Ketetahi stream after an hours of leaving the Shelter and into the forest. By now the sunlight was blocked by the trees. It was quite cold and dark. This part of the track seemed to be never ending, especially when the sun was setting.

By the time we emerged from the forest, it has took us 8 hours.

There were few important points we could learn from this trip.

1. If weather is bad, postpone it. There is always some other times you to do it.
2. Plan and don't rush .
3. Keep your body hydrated. Bring sufficient water.
4. Do stretches and warm up those muscles properly.
5. Be prepare for weather change. Bring warm clothing : beanie, thermal gloves, long pant, windproof and warm jacket.

We probably made the right decision to do the Crossing  on Saturday. Otherwise we have to wait till Tuesday where the weather forecast was excellent. It was the right option even though was not the best decision.

As mentioned on the DOC website, Tongariro Alpine Crossing indeed is the best one day walk. However the track is very much weather dependent. Just remember that the weather at the car park is vastly different from that on the summit.  

Video Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fuZ8rWiLctUrIuRZe0cFU9EjJWIYdfr2/view?usp=sharing

Photo Link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fuZ8rWiLctUrIuRZe0cFU9EjJWIYdfr2/view?usp=sharing

Lake Wainamu Track 20 October 2013

This was the first time we attempted track around Bethells Beach . Instead of doing the longer Te Henga track, we opted for the shorter Lake Wainamu track. Our plan was to include Houghton Track, which would take us a good 5 hours. Either the tracks were not well sign posted, or that we were not familiar with river and sand dunes markings, we were not sure of the direction. Indeed it was difficult to pinpoint where the track or marking pole was.

At the end it was fun and exciting no doubt.

Climbing up the sand dune, with 11 kg pack on your back was hard work and the legs got tire easily. But coming down was more fun. It's true, what goes up must come down!

After a short walk from the car park, you came to the side of the river. If you don't mind getting a bit wet, walk on the shallow Waiti River until you get to Lake Wainamu. A short climb or long climb, depends on your option, took us to the edge of the lake. There is no mark pole or sign here.

We ventured up the sandy part and that led us to the toilet. We took the wrong turn and went into the pine forest. Still no sign about where we were. We guessed we were on the wrong track but we just keep walking, just to prove that we were on the wrong track.

After morning tea, a slight climb took us to no where and the sensible thing was to turn back. Off we were back and heading towards the lake. The Houghton Track was, in fact, further down the lake track, ie after you passed a sign warning about no camping. As we have wasted valuable hours, we decided just to complete the shorter Lake Wainamu track.

The track around the lake was pretty easy, and not long after that we came to the Wainamu Falls. Not high,  not huge but no doubt still spectacular. We have a short break at the Wainamu Falls.

So it was time to head back to the car park. Now we were walking on the other side of Lake Wainamu. Eventually the track took us back to Waiti River. It was time to cool our tiring feet.

It could get pretty hot on a sunny day, especially when you were up on the sand dune. I reckon the best time to do this track, including sliding down the giant sand dunes, would be on an overcast day.

By the time everybody reached the car park, it was 2 pm and it was time for our big feast again.

Pine Forest

Approching Waiti River

Wainamu Falls

Climbing up sand dune

Sign to Hougton Track

Giant sand dune

Beautiful reflection of golden light casting on top of the sand dune 

Walking the Routeburn Track (Part 3)

Walking The Routeburn Track - Final Part


Lake MacKenzie would rank the most scenic of the Routeburn Track. Whether be it in the evening, early morning or even in the afternoon, you will never get tire of admiring its beauty and the surrounding mountains. In fact the evening scene of the setting sun casting its golden light on Mt Ailsa with the emerald Lake Mackenzie on the foreground is just breathtaking.

Lake MacKenzie

On The way to Split Rock

Day 3: It was time to wake up before the sunrise for the "once in a lifetime' photo shoot. The temperature was freezing cold, my fingers were numb, the face,nose and toes did not respond to command from your brain,  but the reward was well worth it. So much for trying to capture the the best landscape scene and that is life, to be part of the landscape yourself, I guess.

Beech forest

By 8am, breakfast was well served. We packed up for next stage of the journey - Lake Howden Hut. Before we embarked towards Lake Howden, we visited the Split Rock, a short walk from the MacKenzie Hut and passed the camping ground.

Leading to Lake Howden

By 10.30 am it was time to move on. Lake Howden here we come. This was another 8 km 4 hrs+ journey. Initial part of the walk was in the canopy of the beech forest. We were out from the forest after 2 hours of walking and into open country again. This was where you have the full view of the Darran Mountains and the Hollyford river and track on the right. It was hot and sunny and really in contrast to the cloudy and foggy weather on the Harris Saddle route. At the very least we have a good view of the scene which we were unable to appreciate the day before due to the low cloud.

Darran Mountain & Hollyford River

Earland Fall

Once we passed The Orchard, the 2 majestic waterfalls were not too far away. The first waterfall was  just beside the bridge. Even though it is a small in size, it is beautiful. The part where falling rocks were prominent, ie just after the small waterfall, did throw caution to the air. It was passed 12 noon now and it was time to have lunch beside the HUGE Earland Falls. A straight fall from a height of 174 m, you are not going to pass it without getting wet. We were trying for alternate route but the alternate route was even harder! We don't mind to get wet.

Tireness, fatigue and, to a certain degree, disorientation,  must have set in after 2 "tough" days. The walk to Lake Howden seemed to go on forever. With painful soles, blistered feet and aching bodies, we dragged slowly along the track, putting a small step ahead as move. Snail pace really.

The Summit Conference

Lake Howden

It was such a relief to see the sight of Howden Hut and we were welcome on arrival by swamp of sandflies ! The Howden Hut is one of the smallest huts along Routeburn Track. Due to its location where it is only 3 hours from The Divide or 2 hours to the next hut along the Greenstone Track, not many would put a night there. But we glad we did. Other than the sandflies,the ever very friendly Ranger Phil, the scene over Lake Howden, seeing the Scaup or diving ducks doing their routine and the spectacular view from the top of The Summit, about 1 1/2 hrs return from the Hut, made the stay worth every penny.

Scaup

The Summit

We have scheduled meeting with Ranger Phil at 8 pm, but we also didn't like to miss the sunset at The Summit. When we reached the top of The Summit, the bright sunny Sun was still shining but the the chilly wind brought the temperature to almost freezing.

Tonight was for different set of chefs to prepared our meals - noodles with green peas and fish floss. Also it was time to clear out all the excess food.

As with all facilities along the Routeburn Track, Howden Hut was simple and clean. As we have plenty of time to get to The Divide to pick up our rental car, we decided to give something back to DOC before we leave. We were the last to leave and took the opportunity to tidy up the place.

Evening sun - The Summit

We were fortunate to have another excellent weather the next day. It was time to say goodbye to Ranger Phil while he was busy working on the track. The backpack was not as heavy. May be all the foodstuffs were gone, may be the excitement of getting back to the civilisation we are well accustomed to or may be the satisfaction of completing one of the 9 Great Walks. But there was no hiding that there were smiling faces  allround.

The Routeburn track is a beautiful and enjoyable journey suitable for any able walker with reasonable fitness. If you put in the hard yard before venturing into it, you will be rewarded. During our weekly routine tramp, we have clocked 270 km, 16 tracks around Greater Auckland and 80 hours of sweat, cursing, arguments, cramps, bruises etc before tackling Routeburn and these have brought huge benefits to the group, as well as those who did not turn up at Routeburn.

Now it is time to plan the next venture - The Heaphy Track. Yes the longest among the 9 Great Walks  at 78 km. This time the group is getting bigger - 12 people in total. Even with the experience of the Routeburn Track, this time around was not easy either. Organising the logistic of transport was the toughest and getting suitable vehicle for such big group wasn't easy. As Zhu Gek Liang said in the Battle of the Three Kingdom, everything is all set, just wait for the wind to arrive.

Coming out to The Divide

Not only the Heaphy track. We are doing back to back to back : Heaphy track, Whanganui Journey and then Tongariro Alphine Crossing. And even before starting these, the plan for next year : Rakiura Track or Lake Waikaremoana Track. 

Morning misty Lake Howden

Jubilation

Eric - Resident Ranger at The Divide ?

At The Divide Station

The Magnificent 7 & Ranger Phil

Walking the Routeburn Track (Part 2)

The facilities at Routeburn Falls Hut were better than expected. Long drop toilet, dirty bunk beds, shortage of water supply, dirty kitchen, cramp dining area ? No. No  you don't see all these. On the contrary it has facilities more suited to a 3 star motel and the premises were very clean and tidy. A big thumbs up to the ranger in charge.

Routeburn Valley

After some unpacking, have some hot drinks and off we ventured straight to the Routeburn Falls before dinner. The sunlight was still pretty bright then.

We decided to cook the heaviest food items from our pack - Uncle Ben Rice with canned tuna. This , hopefully, will reduce the backpack weight. Wise decision indeed.

However  sharing common sleeping area with 40+ people in one enclosed area and couldn't imagine how to cope with multiple SNORING during the night! We sort of anticipated this problem and brought with us plenty of ear plugs. Bingo the ear plugs worked wonder to mute all uncoordinated musical.

A good sleep was essential as we needed our body to function at its most optimal the next day in order to survive the 7 - 8 hours long tramp to reach the highest point of Routeburn track and across the face of the Hollyford valley.

Rain clouds over Humboldt Mountains

The Ranger gave us a dimmed view of the weather forecast for the next 24 hours - heavy rain. Question we asked ourselves was : " Will it stop by next morning ?" Your guess was as good as anybody there. There were rain clouds hovering nearby in the evening but no sign of rain when we went off to bed. But it started to put on the big show at 3 am . It was not only heavy but real HEAVY. Fortunately it stopped around 8.30 am. Perfect timing!

Routeburn Falls after heavy rain

Due to the heavy rain overnight, the Falls was at its best. The massive volume of water really brought out the beauties of the Falls. Yes more video and photo of the Falls while on our way to Harris Saddle.

You got the feeling that Day 2 was going to be a long and lonely track to tackle. Indeed it was. The track was quite wet but not slippery. The well maintained stone track was firmed underfoot. However the undulating track and the cold temperature did overwork our lungs. Fortunately Ranger John told us the night before that for every 5 minutes of up , the next few minutes would be flat and easy. That was a real spirit booster.

Under the Giant boulder

The scenery from the Routeburn Falls to Harris Saddle was beautiful, with thick clouds hanging over the Humboldt Mountains behind us. After 3.5 hours of leaving the Falls Hut, we passed through a giant boulder and then the beautiful emerald Lake Harris.

Long and lonely track

We knew we were not far from the Harris Saddle where we would have our lunch break. Due to massive thick rain clouds covering the Hollyford valley, we decided not to go up Conical Hill. Otherwise this would put us back 2 hours, and with the cloudy condition, there was really nothing else to view beyond few metre in front of you.



The walk from Harris Saddle to MacKenzie Lake was the first time we really walked in the wet, even though it was only light shower! So out came all the wet weather gears - raincoat, rain cover, gloves, and camera back to its rain shelter.  It seemed taking ages to tackle  this section of the walk - never ending walk, especially when walking among the low cloud and mist which completely covered the Hollyford Valley. A journey to nowhere ? There was a side track - Dead Man Track- and you wouldn't want to venture into if you want to come out of The Divide alive. Scary thought indeed.

Harris Saddle, with Conical Hill behind

On such a long and, at times, lonely walk, you questioned yourself what on earth you were trying to achieve. Joining guided trip would be an easier option. But then this would punch few zeros in your bank balance! But I guessed this was the process of self-assuring.

Indeed day 2 was the longest, if not hardest, walk. Not only it was the longest section, the cloudy weather contributed to feeling of a tough task ahead to get to MacKenzie Lake.

You encountered trampers heading in both directions. The sights of the trampers did give assurance that you were on the right track, even though this was the ONLY track. Hard to get lost really even if you tried hard.

Lake MacKenzie & Mt Ailsa

After almost 6 hours of walking, and on a sharp turn  heading down Lake MacKenzie, we were presented with this AMAZING view :  The evening sun casting on cloud covered Mt Ailsa and Lake MacKenzie, gave the golden glow around the mountain and its surrounding. Truly sensational and beauty beyond description!

Oh so that was the real reason we were here!

As on one of the guided tour websites :" If after walking the Routeburn Track and still not amazed by its beauty, you might as well give up walking." This really summed up nicely the exceptional beauty of the Routeburn Track.

Moss covered rain forest

After walking on the open for most of the day and on after passing the Lake, the landscape suddenly changed.  You entered into another world : The magical moss covered rainforest. The relaxing and peacefulness of the moss carpeted forest quickly made all the tiredness disappeared into this oxygen filled forest. You could live there as long as you wanted to, you thought.

Where are the Fairies ? You knew you were in fantasy land!

By the time we reached Mackenzie Hut, it was nearly 7 hours + of walking. We could pat ourselves on the back for surviving the 12 km track. Well done to the group.

Lake MacKenzie

The mirror-like Lake MacKenzie did quickly make you forgot above the aching bodies. And you guessed it right - clicking, clicking and clicking. A truly postcard scenery.

Day 2 dinner was pasta, another delicious meal for the hungry souls. After dinner we have a long long boring 'lecture' from ranger Evan, who was only fascinated with his pest eradicating program in order to bring bird life back to the area. He took us to and fro between Lake MacKenzie and Te Anau numerous times during the one hour + talk. Almost doozed off.

He might lack the Toastmaster-like presentation skill to entertain those tired souls, his effort deserved big applause, big praise. Well done Ranger Evan. At time of writing, the Government are planning to cut DOC staff in order to cut costs. What a shame they have to take this drastic steps. DOC has done excellent work of keeping and preserving the National treasures in tip top condition for the present and future generation to enjoy. I hope there are better solutions.......

Lake MacKenzie- Simply Beautiful

The sleeping arrangement was not as good as Routeburn Falls Hut. Only a handful of bunk beds were in enclosed area like those at Routeburn Falls. There rest was just a big flat platform where one slept side by side to each other. Almost 20+ of them were laying one next to another. We were fortunate that 2 of the faster walkers managed to get to the Hut before anyone else and booked the more comfortable beds for the rest of the group.

Lake MacKenzie

Morning Sun, Magical Forest

Sunrise

To be continued Part 3 ........